Mysterious City of White Towers in the Gobi Desert

In the heart of the arid and desolate Gobi Desert, where the winds blow uninterrupted across the vast plains, there lies a place shrouded in mystery and solitude: Khar Khoto. When the sun dips below the horizon, it casts long shadows on the barren terrain, and lone travelers on their arduous journeys are met with an enigmatic sight on the distant horizon. The white towers of Khara Khoto are rising as if they were spectral apparitions from the sea of sand.

The striking white towers of Khara Khoto rise from the desert landscape as if in a dream

Yet, as travelers approach, an eerie sense pervades the air—an emptiness that speaks of the absence of life. What was once a vibrant city is now a ghost town. What might have flourished within its walls is now buried under the shifting sands of time.

What happened?

The Mystery of Khara-Khoto

The puzzling aspect about Khara Khoto is not its origins; we are well-informed about its history. The true mystery is the reason why this city was abandoned, and nomads around campfires tell many strange stories about it, each more elusive than the previous one. The mystery deepens as more questions remain unanswered: What caused Khara Khoto to be abandoned and become a forgotten empty town in the heart of the desert? Join us on a journey to answer this mysterious question.

 

The city has a square layout, protected on all sides by strong walls with watchtowers.Why were such strong security measures implemented? What were they so afraid of?

The Origins of the City

Although Khara-Khoto consists of stunningly white towers, it is known by many names, all of which include the word 'black', including Chinese 'black city', Tangut 'black water', and Modern Mongolian 'black water city'. The origin of this paradox is not known. Established in 1032, Khara Khoto soon evolved into a bustling center of trade on caravan routes. The city's wealth was manifested in formidable defenses, which included high ramparts and wide outer walls that stretched 421 m (1,381 ft) east-west and 374 m (1,227 ft) north-south, all of which featured a white facade. 

Genghis Khan's capture of the walled fortress in 1226 did not mark the end of Khara Khoto, as many people believe. Rather, the city continued to thrive. At that time, Khara Khoto underwent an unexpected expansion, surpassing its original size by three times. Located at a pivotal crossroads connecting major cities of the steppe, the Khara-Khoto played a crucial role in the formation of subsequent nomadic kingdoms at the border of Imperial China. Unfortunately, for this very reason, it also became the subject of many military campaigns of Chinese emperors who felt threatened by these nomads.

The city is surrounded on all sides by deadly deserts

The city's unusual number of temples and monasteries is a remarkable feature. The city's numerous monasteries, despite its strategic position on trade routes, make it look like a city of monks instead of merchants, which adds to the mystery of Khara-Khoto. Excavations conducted in the 20th century revealed a plethora of religious texts, confirming the town's strong religious influence. Marco Polo recounted a forty-day camel journey through the surrounding desert without encountering any other town or habitation, which made the city remarkably isolated. The ruins' remote location poses a challenge for making them a more attractive tourist destination even today, even though his account may be somewhat exaggerated.

The Discovery of Khara-Khoto

The isolation of Khara-Khoto may explain why its existence was completely forgotten by the outside world. An ancient city hidden in the middle of the Gobi desert was discovered only by Russian explorers in the early 20th century, when the Asian Museum in St. Petersburg kicked off an expedition led by Pyotr Kuzmich Kozlov.

Starting in November 1907, the expedition faced challenges in finding the elusive ruins, as Chinese and Mongolian authorities seemed determined to keep the city's location secret from intruders. Despite the obstacles, the Russians enlisted the help of a local guide named Bata. The expedition, led by Bata, finally reached the city in the middle of the desert on March 19, 1908.

The layout of the city

The explorers came across impressive walls that formed a square perimeter, and two mausoleums on the western side were almost in ruins. The structures were almost completely buried in sand, except for the western wall. The city resembled a fairytale story.

Starting their archaeological digs, the team unearthed an array of artifacts in just the first few days, including books, letters, metal and paper currency, women's jewelry, and household items. The mausoleum, later titled 'Famous', proved to be a particularly valuable treasure trove, revealing a large library that contained up to 2000 scrolls. Metal and wooden figurines were discovered by the researchers, which were remarkably preserved due to the arid desert climate. Other artifacts also included over 3500 paintings of Buddhist and Christian saints.

The Legendary Tales of Khara-Khoto

In a legend, Khara Bator, a Mongol military general, was surrounded by his troops in 1372 by the Ming dynasty's armies, causing a major water supply problem in the city. As a consequence, Khara-Khoto was denied water for its gardens and wells by the Chinese. With time, Khara Bator became aware of the hopeless situation and by breaking through the northwestern corner of the city wall, he and his most loyal soldier escaped into the desert and were never seen again. The legendary story can still be confirmed by the fact that a rider can pass through a breach in the walls in the ruins today. 

In the end, the city was taken by Ming General Feng Sheng. The town's defenders either gave in or died, and thousands of residents were taken captive by the Ming troops. After the defeat, and possibly due to a real water shortage, the city was abandoned and left in ruin. However, its extremely remote location prevented it from being looted. 

There is also another explanation for why the city was abandoned. This legend states that Feng Sheng released desert jinns from their confinement, where they had been held captive by a strong magical seal.

According to legends, the 'ancient shadows' emerged from a monastery in the city after the protective seal was broken

According to the legend, General Feng Shen was a man who was both proud and self-centered. When he learned that there was an entrance into the underworld under one of the monasteries, he decided that he must see it. He called all the monks and had them explain to him what was behind the closed doors, on which hangs a seal with written ancient letters. He asked for the seal to be cleaned so that he could better see what was written there. He was surprised when he saw it written on the seal: 

The doors will only be opened by General Feng Sheng the Great in the future. 

Delighted that his name was written on the seal in such a laudatory tone, he said to the abbot.

You tried to make me fool. You advised me to stay away from these doors, even though the seal bears my name, because you wanted to prevent me from fulfilling my great destiny predicted by the ancients centuries ago. These doors certainly contain something other than what you tried to tell me, and your fairy tales only served to hinder me from obtaining it. Whatever great thing is awaiting me there, you monks want to keep it for yourself. I will make you pay dearly for your conduct, but now I have more urgent things to do.

The soldiers were instructed to break the seal and open the doors, which according to legend unleashed an ancient danger, that has been causing mischief in the city and its surroundings since that time, which is why the city was abandoned.

The Ruins of the City Today

Visitors have the opportunity to explore the remnants of the city during their presence. However, the current status of tourist amenities may vary, and travelers are advised to check for the latest updates. In order to reach Khara Khoto, it is usually necessary to travel to Inner Mongolia, with airports in Hohhot being possible entry points. From there, travelers can utilize a combination of flights, trains, and buses to access the region, followed by local transportation options. Guided tours may be available to provide informative experiences, but it's recommended to verify the availability of such services before planning a trip. 

In the expansive desert enveloping the city, traversing the hazardous terrain demands utmost caution due to the ever-shifting sand and the monotonous landscape in which it is easy to get lost. For those daring enough, there's an opportunity to set up a tent and spend the night in close proximity to the ruined town. It is only during these moments that one might encounter the city in all its charm, an empty and forgotten ruin at the edge of the unknown. And who knows, maybe one will also hear mysterious echoes of the past emanating from the enigmatic ruins during the cloudless night under the starry sky. 

For another mystery from Mongolia, also check In Search of the Lost Tomb of Genghis Khan